The father of the miniskirt is dead. André Courrèges, who invented it to make one of the emblems of the sixties, died January 7, 2016. “The great French fashion designer, known for having revolutionized the world of high fashion in the 1960s, has off last night, after a long battle over thirty years against Parkinson’s disease, “said the brand in a statement.
Frédéric Torloting and Jacques Bungert , the co-chairs of Courrèges Group, also spoke: “All his life, André Courrèges, with Coqueline , has continued to advance, to invent to stay ahead: a visionary designer who already saw what would be the 21st century and who believed in the progress it is making today so modern Courrèges We believe.. his family of which we are very close. ”
On Twitter, tributes rained upon announcement:
His style
Optimistic, fun and revolutionary: the style André Courrèges divided. While Chanel decrees that “this man is bent on destroying the woman to conceal its forms, to transform it into a little girl,” Yves Saint Laurent admit the contrary “I enlisais in traditional elegance, Courreges released me His collection stimulated me..” André Courrèges is inspired by the architecture , science fiction and sports . While his mother was wearing only black, the creator makes White his trademark.
The woman he dresses is active and pressed, it looks functional clothing. After giving the miniskirt (popularized by Mary Quant in England) acclaim, Courrèges attacks the pants . He draws the silhouette is made of straight lines . The cuts are no folds or grippers, Stitch and rounded pockets give volume to the clothes.
The research material interests as much as the cut: it mainly uses vinyl and Nylon . flat boots , trapeze miniskirt , vinyl jacket , dress jogging hooded , knitted tights both coasts and Slots glasses remain its iconic pieces. Finally, Courrèges does not hesitate to diversify her business: after launching several perfumes and Café Blanc , umbrellas, linens, stationery, but also watches, cameras , cars, scooters, bicycles, apartments and even windsurfers will be signed Courreges.
His entourage
His wife Coqueline , its “complementary creativity,” remains inseparable from his work. In the 1970s, he dresses the most elegant women in the world: Jackie Kennedy , Romy Schneider , Brigitte Bardot , Catherine Deneuve and Françoise Hardy popularize her outfits.
Even Claude Pompidou at Courreges dresses. The creator is surrounded by big names and young talent: the photographer Richard Avedon makes its campaigns, and in 1994 Jean-Charles de Castelbajac works at his side to imagine two collections. Finally, his desire to always look to the future closer to the Paco Rabanne and Pierre Cardin .
His career
André Courrèges was born in Pau, March 9, 1923. The young man, drawing and amateur rugby enthusiast, dream of integrating a school of Art. He first began studying engineering at the School of Civil Engineering and becomes air driver when World War II broke out. After the Liberation, he moved to Paris to take courses at the Chambre Syndicale school of sewing.
In 1950, the young André joined Cristobal Balenciaga . It’s in the workshops of the Spanish designer he falls in love with Coqueline Barrier , his future wife. In 1961 Courreges emancipated and Emmanuel Ungaro successor at Balenciaga. The Béarnais opened his first couture house, but remains in its infancy strongly influenced by his former mentor.
Courreges style truly born during the 1965 parade The creator decides quickly to stop the Haute Couture to get into the ready-to-wear to democratize the pace he advocates. He launched the concept of “ Couture Future ” in 1967, and opened shops ready-to-wear in Paris, Houston and New York. Two years after the birth of their daughter Marie in 1970, André Courrèges and Coqueline are building their own factory in Pau. It employs 300 workers. The same year, the fragrance Imprint is started. André Courrèges is a star, a famous US to Japan.
In 1976, however, the success of Courrèges is slowing. Two years later, the house passed into the hands of the Japanese company Itokin . On 8 January 1986, it is excluded from the trade association of the seam. In 1993, André Courrèges redeems its shareholders, before entrusting the leadership of the house to his wife. Sick, he takes refuge in personal art projects and architecture. The house Courrèges passes the new millennium with a Haute Couture show, January 22, 2002. In 2011 she was bought by Jacques Bungert and Frédéric Torloting working to awaken sleeping beauty. Two years later, Pau factory reopens. The label wants to believe in a second youth.
What you may not know
In 1972, André Courrèges which carries the official clothing Munich Olympics , clothing worn by more than 20,000 people at the event, from hostesses to pump attendants, through the nurses.
Her
quotes “I am not only fashion designer, I deal with life in general!”
“Like Le Corbusier, who made light into the homes he conceived, I wanted to let the light in my clothes.”
His heirs
Today, he continues to inspire the greatest. We find particular references to his work in the world Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada . The parade Louis Vuitton autumn-winter 2014-2015 with Nicolas Ghesquière reinterpreted the Sixties cuts and expensive vinyl to the creator. As for the young Simon Porte Jacquemus , her creations with geometric volumes and pop colors resonate with the Courreges style.
However, it is now the creative duo Coperni formed by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant one thinks when talking André Courrèges. Since their arrival as artistic director in 2015 and the first parade acclaimed last September, Courrèges resurgent
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