Saturday, October 1, 2016

Dior: escrimeuses inaugurated the reign of “feminist” of Maria Grazia Chiuri – The Point

First artistic director of Dior, the Italian Maria Grazia Chiuri has proclaimed her feminism during her catwalk inaugural for the parisian house on Friday, where unexpected silhouettes of escrimeuses the interaction of light dresses in embroidered tulle.

“We should all be feminists” (“We should all be feminists”): the message is printed in black letters on white t-shirts, worn with long skirts. Other t-shirts had the phrase “Dio(r)evolution”.

Appointment in the highly anticipated fourth day of paris Fashion Week, this fashion show marked the debut in Dior the designer of 52 years, formerly at the head of the creation of Valentino and who took over in July at the Belgian Raf Simons, now at Calvin Klein.

Home, Maria Grazia Chiuri, feminism is adorned with the uniform of the fencer, mask aside. A uniform that allows you to escape “to the categories stereotyped +male/female+, +young/old+, +reason/sense+”.

A look little usual from this designer come in Valentino, where she was known alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli – now the sole artistic director of the roman house – by its silhouettes and romantic, influenced by the period of the Renaissance.

“I have a boy and a girl. I want them to have the same opportunities in life. A lot of people think that it is no longer necessary to talk about the issue of equality. But it is necessary to talk about it because at this point, I am not sure that the whole world may believe,” says behind the scenes the designer, wearing a pendant, silver in the form of the S of Superman.

- Rihanna and Kate Moss -

The red hearts embroidered adorn vests, padded and equipped with straps, worn with pants, capri pants, or a dress strapless white tulle to satin.

“Sometimes I find that women use more their heart than their reason, it is necessary that they find the balance between the two”, says the designer, who supervises at Dior for the haute couture collections, ready-to-wear and accessories for women.

boots laced and flat to give a sporty look to a knit dress, crochet leaves see below. Wear a hat with a wide brim offsets the solemnity of a long dress in wool crepe.

If the black and white dominate the palette of this collection, the red made an irruption noticed on a set biker jacket/tulle skirt fashion tutu.

The spirit of lingerie is very present, and transparencies abound. A sword embroidered on a skirt reminiscent of the medieval inspiration dear to the designer, while a series of dress long tulle over flesh-colored, on which are embroidered astrological signs, recalling the side superstitious of Christian Dior.

The pattern of the bee, embroidered here and there in the collection, is also a reference to “Monsieur Dior,” and to Napoleon, and Rome, the hometown of the designer.

But the founder of the house is “not the only reference” of its new artistic director, who has taken care to include all its predecessors, including John Galliano, “a huge reference for my generation.”

The parade, which stood in a setting of pearl grey, in an ephemeral structure built at the Rodin Museum, was attended by many celebrities. In addition to the muses of the brand as Rihanna, Jennifer Lawrence and Marion Cotillard were present to the designers Alber Elbaz, Pierre Cardin and Pierpaolo Piccioli, as well as Kate Moss, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy and the minister of Culture Audrey Azoulay.

30/09/2016 20:38:52 – Paris (AFP) – © 2016 AFP


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